
The Importance of Regular Gear Inspections: What to Look For
Whether you’re on patrol, training, or out hiking, routine gear checks are a first line of defense for safety and performance. Equipment can fail gradually; small issues like frayed stitching or loose fasteners often precede major problems. Experts emphasize that consistent inspection and maintenance prolong gear life and prevent failures. Before each mission or trip, take a moment to examine your kit head-to-toe. Below we break down key inspection points, warning signs, field fixes, and at-home care for each major gear category, so you can catch issues early and keep gear mission-ready.
Combat Boots
- Inspect soles and heels: Look for cracks, separation, uneven tread wear or compression. A cracked or thinning sole and worn heel reduce traction and support. Ensure heel wedges aren’t coming loose.
- Check stitching and seams: Examine seams along the uppers and tongue. A loose or ripped seam (or separated sole) can turn into a major tear with continued use.
- Examine laces and eyelets: Frayed or damaged laces and bent eyelets compromise lacing strength and support. Replace frayed laces immediately and repair split eyelets with a temporary wrap or tape.
- Look inside: Remove insoles and check the interior lining. Worn or compressed insoles reduce cushioning; mold or odors signal moisture retention.
- Signs of failure: Deep cuts, holes in the leather, or a sole starting to peel off are critical failures. Scuffed leather or creases are normal, but separated soles or stitching always require attention.
- Field fixes: In a pinch, strong tape or glue can seal small sole splits or reattach loose leather. Carry extra laces and use foot-care tape to cushion blisters. If a seam comes apart, a needle-and-thread quick stitch can hold things together until you can do a proper repair.
- At-home care: After use, clean off mud and let boots air-dry fully. Condition leather with wax or oil to keep it supple. Replace insoles or insole padding when flattened. Store boots in a cool, dry place; re-waterproof leather with silicone sprays or waxes if needed.
Body Armor
- Inspect panels and covers: Visually check armor panels (soft or hard) through their covers for any cuts, tears or creases. For hard plates, ensure there are no cracks, dents or warping – damage that can compromise ballistic integrity.
- Check carrier and straps: Examine the carrier cover and stitching. Look for fabric fraying or worn spots where the body armor rubs. Ensure all straps, buckles and Velcro fasteners are intact and hold tight. Loose straps can fail under stress.
- Signs of failure: Any visible penetration of the panel (through the cover), water stains, or compressions means the armor’s protection is degraded. A broken labeling tag or exposed ballistic fiber indicates immediate replacement is needed. Never ignore stitching separation on the cover – moisture can get in and weaken the armor.
- Field fixes: There is no safe field repair for damaged ballistic panels. If a panel is cracked or its cover is compromised, take it out of service. You may patch torn fabric cover temporarily to keep dirt out, but never try to stitch, glue, or tape over the ballistic material itself.
- At-home maintenance: Follow the manufacturer’s care instructions: usually gentle hand-wash carriers in mild soap (no bleach or harsh solvents) and air-dry. For soft armor, lay panels flat – never fold them – and store in a cool, dry place. Hang armor or lay it flat to avoid warping. Inspect annually as recommended by NIJ and after any hard use or exposure to moisture.
Tactical Gloves
- Inspect glove material: Look over the palms, fingers and knuckles for abrasions, punctures or fabric thinning. Check fingertips (especially if touchscreen-capable) and padding for wear. Any hole or raw fabric edge is a failure point.
- Check seams and closures: Examine stitching on all fingers and the back of the hand. Ensure Velcro straps or cuffs close securely and are not stretched out. Loose threads can unravel stitching if not dealt with.
- Signs of failure: Tears, holes, or missing padding immediately reduce protection. Gloves that feel unusually stiff, wet, or have chemicals on them should be replaced. As one safety guide warns, damaged gloves should be repaired or replaced immediately to maintain safety standards.
- Field fixes: Small cuts or holes can be temporarily patched with duct tape or lightweight fabric tape. Carry a spare pair of gloves if possible (or repair tape/needle kit). Tighten any loose straps with tape or cable ties if a cuff comes undone.
- At-home care: Follow washing instructions: many tactical gloves can be hand-washed with mild detergent and air-dried. Do not machine-dry or expose to direct heat (to prevent shrinking or melting). Clean gloves to remove dirt, sweat and chemicals, and store them flat in a dry place. Condition leather gloves if applicable to keep leather from drying out.
Flashlights
- Inspect the body: Check the flashlight housing for cracks, dents, or loose parts. Test the on/off switch and any mode selector; a malfunctioning switch often precedes flickering or failure. Toggle through all brightness modes to ensure consistent operation.
- Lens and reflector: Clean the lens – it should be clear, not scratched or foggy. A dirty or scratched lens diffuses light and weakens the beam. Ensure the reflector (behind the LED) is not misaligned.
- Battery compartment: Open the tailcap and inspect the contacts. Look for white or green corrosion – a sure sign of leaked battery acid. Remove any residue with isopropyl alcohol on a swab. Ensure battery springs are not rusted or bent.
- O-rings and seals: Check rubber O-rings on the tailcap and head. If an O-ring is cut or missing, the flashlight may no longer be waterproof. Lubricate O-rings lightly with silicone grease to maintain the water seal. Examine glass seals for cracks that would admit water.
- Signs of failure: If the light flickers intermittently, suspect a loose battery contact or switch issue. Dim output or a shifted beam pattern could mean a dirty lens or a failing LED. A buzzing or no light at all indicates electrical contact failure.
- Field fixes: Carry spare batteries and an extra O-ring. Secure a cracked body with electrical tape as a short-term fix. If the switch jams, jiggle it or wrap it with a bit of tape to hold in one position. Always have a backup light or batteries on hand.
- At-home maintenance: Remove batteries if storing the flashlight for long periods to prevent corrosion. Clean exterior with a soft cloth; use compressed air to blow out dust from threads and button crevices. Bi-annually, fully disassemble (head and tailcap) to clean threads and re-grease them. Clean the lens with glass cleaner and a microfiber cloth – avoid touching the LED directly. Store the flashlight in a dry place away from extreme heat.
Hydration Systems
- Check the bladder: Fill the reservoir with water and watch for leaks. Inspect the seams around the edges and the bite valve fitting – any drips mean a puncture or bad seal. Small pinholes can leak slowly and may not be obvious until stressed.
- Inspect the tube and valve: Look along the entire tube for cracks, kinks or soft spots. Check the bite valve for tears or debris blocking it. Detach the valve and rinse it; a clogged valve can block flow.
- Examine the cap and connector: Ensure the drinking tube snap or plug fits tightly on the bladder. Inspect any O-rings or screw threads for wear – a dirty or damaged O-ring can cause a leak. Clean the threads of the cap and tube connection to prevent leaks.
- Signs of failure: Water stains inside the backpack or a taste/smell in the water indicates mold or a leak. If the bladder feels unusually soft or cracked when empty, it may have degraded. Yellowing or rigidity of the plastic suggests the need for replacement.
- Field fixes: For tiny leaks, consider quickly patching with electrical or duct tape on the inside of the bladder. Carry spare bite valves or tubes, if possible, to swap out a broken part. If you suspect contamination, use a portable filter or purification tablets.
- At-home maintenance: Clean after every use – fill with warm water and mild soap or use a hydration cleaning tablet. Use a long brush or scrubbing tool to reach inside the bladder and hose. Rinse thoroughly, then air-dry completely by hanging the bladder open or using a drying rack. Never store the bladder wet; a dry bladder prevents mold. Store it in a cool, dry place (even a freezer can be used for storage) to inhibit bacteria.
Tactical Clothing
- Inspect fabric: Check jackets, pants and shirts for rips, snags or abrasions, especially at elbows, knees, and seat. Even small holes can grow larger under stress. Damaged waterproof coatings (W/R or DWR) may cause leaks in wet weather.
- Check seams and threads: Loose threads mean stitches are about to unravel. Rather than cut them off, carefully melt the tip with a lighter to stop unravelling. Reinforce any seam that shows gaps or worn stitching.
- Examine closures: Test all zippers, buttons, snaps, and Velcro. A zipper that catches or slips out of alignment should be fixed or lubricated. Replace missing buttons and ensure Velcro still grips tightly. A broken zipper on a duty jacket or open Velcro flap can be a serious nuisance.
- Signs of failure: Faded, stiff or mildewed fabric suggests it’s past its prime. Color fading can indicate UV damage; stiffness can mean loss of fabric treatment. If knees or elbows have threads showing through or holes, the garment no longer provides full protection.
- Field fixes: Patch holes with fabric tape or use needle and thread for quick repairs. Use a safety pin for a lost button; duct tape on the outside can hold a hem or tear in a pinch. Tighten any loose drawstrings or replace them with cord.
- At-home care: Follow garment labels – typically wash in cold water on a gentle cycle. Turn clothes inside-out to protect outer finishes. Avoid bleach or harsh detergents (they can strip protective coatings). Air-dry clothing; high heat in dryers can shrink or damage technical fabrics. Reapply a waterproofing spray to outerwear as needed. Store uniforms and gear clean and dry, folded or hung loosely (do not stuff wet clothes into bags).
Load-Bearing Gear (Vests, Belts, Pouches)
- Inspect webbing and straps: Look for frayed stitching or worn spots where the load is carried. Areas around buckles and where pouches attach see the most stress. Tug gently on MOLLE straps – they should not pull out of their stitching.
- Check buckles and closures: Ensure all clips, buckles, and fasteners work smoothly. A cracked buckle or a Velcro panel that won’t hold is a safety hazard. Listen for a firm “click” when buckles engage.
- Examine attachment points: Where pouches hook onto vests or belts, check for loose stitching or torn fabric. If a pouch is sagging or swaying, its attachment is compromised.
- Inspect armor plates: If your vest has insert plates, remove and inspect them as you would standalone body armor. Cracks or delamination in a plate means immediate replacement.
- Signs of failure: Stretching or tearing of nylon webbing, buckles that no longer lock, or Velcro hook-and-loop that’s lost grip all indicate gear that’s past due for repair/replacement. Any deformation (e.g., a bent D-ring) should be addressed.
- Field fixes: Carry heavy-duty zip ties, paracord, or a repair kit to lash a broken strap or buckle in an emergency. You can also remove and swap pouches between vests/belts if one rig has a complete failure.
- At-home maintenance: Clean gear with mild soap and water to remove dirt and sweat. Rinse and dry completely to prevent mildew. Lubricate metal or plastic buckle parts if they’re sticking. Replace any frayed straps, broken buckles or split panels before the next use.
Communication Gear (Radios, Headsets)
- Check batteries: Make sure batteries are fully charged and seated correctly. Inspect battery packs for bloating or damage. Batteries older than 2–3 years often fail; check the date code and swap in a fresh battery if it’s past its lifespan.
- Inspect connections: Look over antenna bases, accessory ports, and headset plugs for corrosion or damage. Gently clean metal contacts with an alcohol swab – avoid getting liquid inside any port. Ensure antennas are the correct type and screwed in tightly (a loose antenna kills range).
- Test audio: Plug in and test the speaker and microphone (or headset) before use. Crackling or dropouts mean a failing speaker or mic element. Check headset cables for frayed insulation or broken wires.
- Check housing: Examine the radio and headset for cracks or dents, especially after a hard drop. Cracked plastic can let moisture enter. Make sure all buttons and knobs turn smoothly.
- Signs of failure: Poor transmit/receive range, static noise, or rapidly draining batteries all indicate issues. If one radio consistently fails while others work fine, it’s likely that unit’s hardware.
- Field fixes: Carry spare charged batteries and an extra headset if possible. Tape loose cables or antennas securely. If reception is poor, try repositioning or swapping antennas. If a microphone fails, switch to a hand mic or speaker as a backup.
- At-home maintenance: Wipe down radios and headsets regularly with a soft cloth or alcohol wipe. Use compressed air to blow dust out of buttons and jacks. Inspect and clean any earpiece or throat-mic elements. Store equipment in cases or dry pouches to keep them clean and dust-free.
First Aid Kits
- Inventory items: Periodically lay out all kit contents. Ensure sterile items (bandages, dressings, medications) are sealed and dry. Check that scissors, tweezers, and tools are present and functional.
- Check expiration dates: Items like adhesive bandages, ointments, and medications expire. Mark the date and replace any item past its “use by” date. Even bandages lose adhesive potency over time.
- Inspect packaging: Discard anything with torn or wet packaging – it’s no longer sterile. Replace any item showing moisture damage or obvious defects.
- Replenish common items: Top-throughput items (band-aids, gauze, antiseptic wipes, pain relievers) should be topped up immediately after use. Keep a spare supply on hand so you never run out.
- Signs of failure: A first aid kit isn’t “worn out” like other gear, but an incomplete or expired kit is a failure risk. If your kit feels lighter or if key meds are outdated, it needs action.
- Field fixes: Always carry a small overwrap of tape and some extra gauze or bandages beyond what’s in the kit. If something is missing (e.g., antiseptic), improvise with what you have (boiled water, clean cloth).
- At-home maintenance: Designate a monthly or quarterly “first aid check day” to go through the kit. Restock used items promptly – replenishing top-used supplies the same day you use them. Store the kit in a cool, dry place (heat can degrade medications).
Gear Inspection Checklist
- Combat Boots: Check soles, heels, and tread for cracks or heavy wear. Inspect laces, eyelets, and stitching for fraying or separation.
- Body Armor: Examine panels for cover tears, dents or deformities. Verify all straps, buckles, and seams are intact (do NOT open panel covers).
- Tactical Gloves: Look for holes or worn spots on palms/fingers. Ensure seams and closures (Velcro, cuffs) remain secure.
- Flashlights: Test all modes and inspect lens for cracks or scratches. Check battery compartment for corrosion (green/white residue) and ensure O-rings are unbroken.
- Hydration Bladder: Fill and check for leaks or drips. Inspect hose, bite valve, and cap seals for cracks or damage.
- Tactical Clothing: Examine fabric at elbows, knees, and seat for tears. Check stitching, loose threads (burn the ends if needed), and verify buttons/zippers work.
- Load-Bearing Gear: Inspect straps, webbing, and buckles for frays or breaks. Check MOLLE attachments and Velcro closures for wear.
- Communication Gear: Confirm batteries are charged and not expired. Inspect antenna and connectors for tight fit; clean dirt from buttons.
- First Aid Kit: Verify all expected supplies are present. Check expiration dates on meds and ointments, and ensure packaging is sealed and dry.
FAQ
Q: Why are routine gear inspections so important?
Regular inspections catch problems early before failure. A small tear or loose stitch today could be a broken harness or glove tomorrow. Experts note that maintenance and inspections are the first line of defense in keeping equipment safe and reliable. By inspecting gear often, you avoid last-minute surprises, maintain peak performance, and protect yourself from avoidable hazards.
Q: How often should I inspect my gear?
Always do a quick check before and after each use (e.g., pre-mission or post-hike). Pay special attention after any hard event (heavy rain, drop, or combat). For items in constant use, a more thorough inspection every few weeks (or monthly) is good practice. Some standards apply: for example, NIJ recommends at least annually inspecting ballistic armor for wear. In short, critical gear (boots, body armor, radios) merits at least monthly checks, while clothing can be checked during regular laundry cycles.
Q: I found damage in my gear – can I still use it?
Any damage must be assessed for safety. Never use degraded protective gear: if a bulletproof panel is cracked or a fire-retardant glove has a hole, it’s no longer reliable. Some minor issues can be temporarily fixed (e.g., taping a torn boot sole, using a spare battery in a radio), but safety-critical items should be repaired properly or replaced. For example, body armor panels should never be field-repaired – if a cover is torn or a plate is hit, pull it from service immediately. Always err on the side of caution: when in doubt, replace a suspect component.
Q: Can I do quick fixes myself?
Yes, for many items there are simple field repairs: tape or wire can hold a torn uniform seam, boot glue or tape can seal a sole split, and zip ties or paracord can substitute for a broken strap. Radios and flashlights can often be fixed by swapping batteries or cleaning contacts. However, keep it simple: these are temporary fixes to get you by until proper maintenance is done. Never attempt to fix structural components of armor or safety equipment that require precise repair. When you return home, perform a thorough fix or replacement as needed.
Q: How should I store my gear when not in use?
Proper storage extends life. Keep gear in a cool, dry place out of direct sunlight. Don’t stash damp items; always dry them completely first (hang hydration bladders open, air-dry boots, etc.). Store armor flat or hung (not folded) to prevent warping. For electronics, remove batteries when storing long-term. Clean gear before storing: sweat and dirt can degrade materials, so wash and dry uniforms and wipe down metal/polymers of straps or radios before putting them away. Each piece of equipment is only as good as its upkeep. By following the above inspection routines and maintenance tips, you help ensure your gear won’t let you down when you need it mos